A crochet skirt can look complicated when you see the finished lace texture and scalloped hem, but the construction is much more approachable than it appears. This crochet scallop skirt combines a comfortable ribbed waistband with a gently flared body and a decorative scalloped lace border.

The pattern below is designed as an original, adaptable crochet pattern inspired by the skirt shown in your reference image. It is written in US crochet terminology and includes sizes XS through 2XL, measurement guidance, stitch instructions, shaping options, color ideas, and detailed step-by-step tutorials.

The biggest advantage of making your own crochet skirt is that you can control almost everything: the waist fit, length, amount of flare, yarn color, hem style, and even the level of openness in the lace.

Crochet Scallop Skirt at a Glance

Feature	Details
Skill level	Advanced beginner to intermediate
Crochet terminology	US terms
Construction	Waistband + top-down skirt body
Sizes	XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL
Fit	Comfortable, gently fitted waist with flared skirt
Main texture	Vertical crochet/lace-inspired texture
Hem	Decorative scalloped border
Length	Customizable
Recommended yarn	DK or light worsted
Hook	Approximately 4.0–4.5 mm
Construction	Worked in rounds
Best seasons	Spring, summer, fall
Wear style	Casual, feminine, boho, cottagecore, autumn

What Makes This Crochet Skirt Special?

The design has several elements that make it more wearable than a completely open crochet skirt.

The ribbed waistband provides structure around the waist while still allowing some stretch.

The slightly flared body prevents the skirt from feeling restrictive around the hips.

The vertical stitch pattern visually elongates the skirt and creates more texture than a simple collection of solid double-crochet rounds.

Finally, the scalloped hem gives the skirt its decorative finish without requiring an extremely complicated lace pattern.

You can also modify each of these components independently.

For example, you could make:

• a short summer skirt
• a knee-length skirt
• a midi version
• a high-waisted skirt
• a more dramatic flared version
• a tighter pencil-style version
• a solid-color minimalist skirt
• a striped autumn skirt
• a two-color scalloped skirt

Materials You’ll Need

Yarn

For the most versatile result, use a yarn with enough structure to hold the shape of the skirt without becoming excessively heavy.

A DK/light worsted yarn is a good starting point.

Yarn characteristic	Recommendation
Weight	DK to light worsted
Fiber	Cotton, cotton blend, bamboo blend or acrylic blend
Texture	Smooth
Stretch	Low to moderate
Yardage	Approximately 900–1,800 yd depending on size and length
Color	Rust, cream, sage, taupe, black, brown or your preferred shade

For a summer skirt, cotton or cotton-blend yarn is particularly useful.

For an autumn skirt, a cotton-acrylic or soft acrylic blend can provide more warmth.

Important yarn tip

Avoid extremely fuzzy yarn for your first version.

A smooth yarn makes it much easier to see:

• increases
• decreases
• chain spaces
• stitch placement
• scallops
• mistakes

It also makes blocking easier.

Crochet Hook

Start with:

4.0 mm crochet hook

If your stitches are too tight, move to a 4.5 mm hook.

If your stitches are too loose, try a 3.75 mm hook.

The correct hook is ultimately determined by your gauge and desired fabric.

Additional Supplies

You’ll also need:

• scissors
• tapestry needle
• stitch markers
• measuring tape
• removable stitch marker
• sewing needle and matching thread
• optional elastic
• optional lining fabric
• safety pins for fitting
• blocking mat or clean towel

Crochet Abbreviations

Abbreviation	Meaning
ch	Chain
sc	Single crochet
hdc	Half double crochet
dc	Double crochet
sl st	Slip stitch
st	Stitch
sts	Stitches
sk	Skip
rep	Repeat
BLO	Back loop only
FLO	Front loop only
inc	Increase
dec	Decrease
sp	Space
rnd	Round

Understanding the Construction

Before beginning, it helps to understand how the skirt is assembled.

The skirt has four major sections:

1. Ribbed waistband

2. Waist-to-hip section

3. Flared skirt body

4. Scalloped hem

The skirt is worked from the waist downward, which makes it particularly convenient because you can try it on as you crochet.

That also means you don’t have to guess the final length.

Finished Measurements

The following measurements are suggested starting points.

Size	Waist	Hip	Approx. Length	Approx. Hem Circumference
XS	24–26″	34–36″	16″	68″
S	26–28″	36–38″	16½”	70″
M	28–30″	38–40″	17″	72″
L	30–32″	40–42″	17½”	74″
XL	32–34″	42–44″	18″	76″
2XL	34–36″	44–46″	18½”	78″

These measurements are intended as a starting point rather than a guarantee of fit.

Crochet fabric behaves differently depending on yarn, hook size, tension and fiber.

Always compare the finished garment measurements with your own body measurements before making the entire skirt.

How to Take Your Measurements

You only need three primary measurements.

Waist

Wrap the measuring tape around the narrowest part of your waist.

Do not pull the tape extremely tight.

Hip

Measure around the fullest part of your hips.

Keep the measuring tape horizontal.

Desired length

Measure from your preferred waistband position down to where you want the skirt to finish.

For a mini skirt, measure toward the upper thigh.

For a knee-length skirt, measure toward the knee.

For a midi skirt, measure farther down the calf.

Choosing the Right Size

Don’t automatically choose a size based only on your usual clothing size.

Instead, compare:

waist + hip + desired length

For example, if your waist corresponds to M but your hips correspond to L, you can begin with the M waistband and add additional increases through the upper body.

This is one of the biggest advantages of crocheting your own clothes.

Gauge

Before starting the skirt, make a gauge swatch.

A useful starting gauge is approximately:

18–20 stitches × 10–12 rows = 4 inches

in the main stitch pattern.

Gauge isn’t only about matching the number.

You also need to check the fabric density.

The skirt should drape rather than stand stiffly.

If your fabric feels too rigid:

→ use a larger hook.

If your fabric is too loose and transparent:

→ use a smaller hook.

The Waistband Pattern

The waistband is worked first.

It uses rows of single crochet through the back loop only to create a ribbed appearance.

Waistband Foundation

For the sample construction:

Chain 11.

This creates approximately a 2-inch waistband.

You can make it wider if you want a higher-rise skirt.

Row 1

Sc in the second chain from the hook.

Sc across.

You should have:

10 sc

Row 2

Ch 1.

Turn.

Sc BLO across.

Row 3

Ch 1.

Turn.

Sc BLO across.

Continue repeating this row until the waistband reaches your desired waist circumference.

Suggested Waistband Length

Size	Suggested Unstretched Waistband
XS	24″
S	26″
M	28″
L	30″
XL	32″
2XL	34″

The crochet fabric will provide additional stretch.

Don’t make the waistband excessively loose.

A slightly snug waistband generally creates a better fit because crochet fabric relaxes with wear.

Joining the Waistband

Lay the two ends of the waistband together.

Make sure the ribbing is not twisted.

Slip stitch the two ends together through both layers.

Fasten off if necessary.

Turn the seam toward the inside.

You now have a crocheted waistband ring.

Starting the Skirt Body

The body is worked around the edge of the waistband.

This is where you’ll begin creating the flare.

A useful starting stitch count is:

Size	Starting Body Stitches
XS	96
S	102
M	108
L	114
XL	120
2XL	126

These stitch counts are all multiples of 6, which makes the decorative pattern easier to repeat.

If your waistband doesn’t naturally produce one of these numbers, don’t force it.

Simply distribute your stitches evenly around the waistband.

For example, if you have 100 stitches around the waistband and need approximately 102, you can add two evenly spaced increases.

Round 1: Establish the Body

Attach your yarn at the waistband seam.

Ch 1.

Work sc evenly around the waistband.

Join with a sl st to the first sc.

Do not make this round excessively tight.

The skirt needs enough flexibility to pass over your hips.

Round 2: Begin the Texture

Ch 2.

Work dc around.

Join with a sl st.

The chain 2 does not need to count as a stitch if you prefer a seamless appearance.

Round 3: First Lace Texture

For a more decorative fabric:

Ch 2, dc in the same stitch, ch 1, skip 1 stitch, dc in the next stitch.

Continue around.

Your repeated sequence is:

dc, ch 1, sk 1

Join with a slip stitch.

This creates small openings while keeping the fabric relatively stable.

Round 4

Ch 2.

Work 2 dc into each chain-1 space around.

This creates subtle vertical ridges.

Continue around.

Join.

Round 5

Ch 1.

Sc in each stitch around.

Join.

This stabilizes the pattern.

Creating the Gentle Flare

A skirt shouldn’t usually remain exactly the same circumference from waist to hem.

You need gradual increases.

A simple method is to add increases at regular intervals.

For example:

Increase Round:
Work 1 increase approximately every 12 stitches.

Then work several rounds without increases.

Repeat this process until you achieve the desired hip and skirt width.

Simple Increase Formula

If you want a more dramatic flare, increase more frequently.

Desired Shape	Increase Frequency
Straight/slim	Every 16–20 sts
Gentle flare	Every 12–16 sts
Moderate flare	Every 8–12 sts
Full flare	Every 6–8 sts

For the style shown in the reference, a gentle to moderate flare works particularly well.

Main Skirt Pattern

Here’s a simple repeat that produces a textured, slightly open appearance.

6-Stitch Repeat

Row/Round A

1 dc, ch 1, skip 1

Repeat.

Row/Round B

Work 2 dc into every ch-1 space.

Row/Round C

Sc around.

Row/Round D

Repeat Row/Round A.

This four-round sequence can be repeated throughout the skirt.

It creates a structured texture without requiring complicated lacework.

How to Make the Skirt Longer

One of the best features of a top-down skirt is that you can customize the length.

Simply continue repeating the main pattern until the skirt reaches approximately:

1–2 inches shorter than your desired finished length.

Why shorter?

Because the scalloped hem adds additional length.

For example:

If you want a final skirt length of 18 inches:

Make the main body approximately 16–16½ inches.

Then add the scalloped border.

Scalloped Hem Tutorial

Now comes the decorative part that gives the skirt its signature finish.

The basic scallop is created using several stitches worked into the same space.

Simple Scallop

Use:

5 dc in the same stitch or space

Then skip the next 2 stitches.

Slip stitch into the following stitch.

Repeat.

Your basic sequence becomes:

5 dc in one space → skip 2 → sl st → skip 2 → 5 dc

This creates rounded shells.

More Delicate Scallop

For a smaller scallop:

3 dc in the same stitch → skip 2 → sl st

Repeat around.

This creates a more subtle border.

Dramatic Scallop

For a larger decorative edge:

7 dc in the same stitch → skip 3 → sl st

Repeat.

This works especially well for a romantic or vintage-style skirt.

Recommended Hem for This Skirt

For the design shown in the reference, I recommend:

5-dc scallops

because they provide enough visual detail without becoming excessively heavy.

Final Scallop Round

Attach yarn at the hem.

Ch 1.

Skip 2 stitches.

Work 5 dc into the next stitch.

Skip 2 stitches.

Sl st into the next stitch.

Repeat around the entire skirt.

Join with a slip stitch.

Fasten off.

Weave in the ends.

Creating a More Decorative Scallop

You can add a second color to the hem.

For example:

Main skirt: rust

Scallops: cream

Or:

Main skirt: cream

Scallops: sage

Or:

Main skirt: black

Scallops: cream

This creates a very different look without changing the main pattern.

Optional Picot Detail

If you want a more intricate border, add small picots.

After completing each scallop:

ch 3, sl st into the first chain

Then continue to the next scallop.

This creates tiny decorative points around the edge.

How to Make a High-Waisted Version

For a higher-waisted skirt, increase the waistband height.

Instead of:

10 foundation chains

use:

14–16 chains

Then work the same BLO rows.

This produces a waistband approximately 3–3½ inches high depending on gauge.

You can also place the waistband higher on the natural waist for a vintage-inspired silhouette.

How to Make a Low-Waisted Version

For a lower-rise skirt, make the waistband approximately 1–1½ inches high.

This is particularly useful for casual summer skirts.

How to Add Elastic

If you want additional waist stability, you can add elastic inside the waistband.

Use soft clothing elastic rather than rigid elastic.

Measure the elastic around your waist.

It should be comfortable rather than painfully tight.

Overlap the ends and sew securely.

Then insert the elastic through the waistband channel.

Distribute the crochet fabric evenly around it.

This is particularly useful if:

• the yarn has little stretch
• you’re making a heavier skirt
• you want additional waist security
• you’re making the skirt for frequent wear

Optional Lining

A crochet skirt can naturally have small openings.

For a more practical everyday garment, add a lightweight lining.

Good lining choices include:

• cotton
• cotton voile
• rayon
• lightweight polyester
• soft jersey

The lining should be slightly shorter than the crochet skirt so it doesn’t extend below the scalloped edge.

How to Add a Lining

1. Measure the finished crochet skirt.
2. Cut the lining approximately 1 inch shorter.
3. Sew the lining into a simple skirt shape.
4. Finish the raw edges.
5. Attach the lining around the inside of the waistband.
6. Leave the scalloped crochet hem visible.

Avoid sewing the lining tightly against the crochet stitches.

The crochet fabric needs room to move.

Color Combinations

The same pattern can look completely different depending on your color choice.

Style	Main Color	Accent
Autumn Classic	Rust	Cream
Cottagecore	Sage	Cream
Minimalist	Black	Taupe
Soft Feminine	Dusty Rose	Cream
Neutral	Oatmeal	Beige
Forest Inspired	Olive	Natural
Vintage	Chocolate Brown	Cream
Summer	Cream	Terracotta

Striped Version

You can also create stripes without changing the pattern.

A simple option is:

4 rounds cream

2 rounds rust

4 rounds cream

2 rounds rust

Continue the sequence.

For a more subtle design, change colors only every 8–10 rounds.

Color-Block Version

Another option is to divide the skirt into three sections.

Section 1

Cream

Section 2

Rust

Section 3

Cream

Then finish the hem with rust scallops.

This produces a much more structured appearance.

How to Customize the Flare

The number of increases determines the silhouette.

Slim Skirt

Use fewer increases.

This gives you a closer-fitting shape around the hips and thighs.

Classic A-Line

Use moderate increases.

This is probably the most versatile option.

Full Skirt

Add increases more frequently.

The lower portion becomes dramatically wider.

Extra-Full Romantic Skirt

Add additional increase rounds and use a larger hook.

This creates a flowing skirt with a lot of movement.

How to Customize the Length

Style	Approximate Length
Mini	14–16″
Short	16–18″
Above knee	18–20″
Knee length	20–22″
Midi	25–30″
Longer midi	30–34″

These are general guidelines.

Your body proportions and preferred style matter more than a fixed number.

Beginner-Friendly Version

If the lace pattern feels too complicated, simplify the entire body.

Work:

dc around

and add evenly distributed increases every few rounds.

Then finish with the scalloped hem.

This creates a very approachable version while retaining the most recognizable feature of the design.

More Advanced Version

Experienced crocheters can add:

• front-post stitches
• raised vertical ribs
• alternating lace panels
• shell motifs
• colorwork
• decorative waist ties
• surface crochet
• picot edging

A particularly attractive variation is to alternate a textured panel with an open lace panel.

Troubleshooting Guide

Problem	Likely Cause	Solution
Waist is too loose	Too many stitches	Reduce waistband circumference
Waist is too tight	Insufficient stretch	Add stitches or use larger hook
Skirt looks stiff	Hook too small	Increase hook size
Skirt looks too transparent	Hook too large	Decrease hook size
Skirt doesn’t flare	Too few increases	Add additional increase rounds
Skirt flares too much	Too many increases	Reduce increase frequency
Hem curls	Uneven tension	Block the skirt
Scallops look uneven	Inconsistent stitch placement	Count spaces carefully
Skirt twists	Foundation was twisted	Check waistband before joining
Fabric looks heavy	Yarn is too thick	Use lighter yarn

How to Keep Your Stitch Counts Consistent

For clothing, stitch counting is much more important than it is for small accessories.

Place a stitch marker at the beginning of every round.

After each increase round, count your stitches.

Write the number down.

For example:

Round 10 — 108 stitches

Round 14 — 120 stitches

Round 18 — 132 stitches

This makes it much easier to identify mistakes before they become difficult to fix.

Blocking the Finished Skirt

Blocking can make a significant difference.

After finishing the skirt:

1. Wash it according to the yarn’s care instructions.
2. Gently remove excess water.
3. Lay the skirt flat.
4. Arrange the scallops evenly.
5. Smooth the body.
6. Pin the scallops if necessary.
7. Allow the garment to dry completely.

Don’t aggressively stretch the waist.

Instead, focus on getting the scallops and overall shape even.

How to Check the Fit

Before weaving in every end, try the skirt on.

Check:

Waist

Can you comfortably sit down?

Can you breathe normally?

Does it stay in place?

Hips

Can the skirt pass comfortably over your hips?

Does the fabric pull excessively?

Length

Does it finish where you intended?

Hem

Do the scallops sit evenly?

If something isn’t right, fix it before completing the finishing work.

Styling Your Crochet Scallop Skirt

This skirt works with surprisingly simple pieces.

Casual Look

Pair it with:

• fitted white T-shirt
• sneakers
• small shoulder bag

Autumn Look

Try:

• cream long-sleeve top
• rust crochet skirt
• ankle boots
• oversized cardigan

Feminine Look

Pair it with:

• fitted blouse
• delicate jewelry
• ballet flats
• small handbag

Boho Look

Try:

• loose linen blouse
• crochet skirt
• suede boots
• woven bag

Minimalist Look

Use:

• black crochet skirt
• fitted neutral top
• simple boots
• understated jewelry

What to Wear Under a Crochet Skirt

Because crochet naturally creates openings, you may want a slip or lining.

Options include:

• fitted skirt slip
• seamless shorts
• cycling shorts
• matching lining
• opaque underskirt

For a more transparent lace design, a full slip provides the cleanest appearance.

Care Instructions

Crochet clothing should be treated gently.

Whenever possible:

• wash according to yarn instructions
• avoid aggressive washing
• don’t wring the skirt
• reshape while damp
• dry flat when recommended
• avoid hanging heavy wet crochet
• store folded

Hanging a heavy crochet skirt for long periods can cause stretching.

How Much Yarn Do You Need?

The exact amount depends heavily on:

• size
• skirt length
• yarn weight
• hook size
• stitch pattern
• amount of flare
• gauge

A practical estimate for a short skirt is:

Size	Estimated Yarn
XS	900–1,050 yd
S	1,000–1,150 yd
M	1,100–1,300 yd
L	1,200–1,450 yd
XL	1,350–1,600 yd
2XL	1,500–1,800 yd

For a midi skirt, purchase considerably more yarn.

Always buy a little extra from the same dye lot.

How to Make a Matching Crochet Top

The skirt can easily become part of a matching set.

Use the same yarn and color.

A simple matching top could include:

• fitted crochet tank
• cropped cardigan
• short-sleeve crochet top
• lace camisole
• cropped sweater

The easiest approach is to keep the top relatively simple so the scalloped skirt remains the focal point.

Crochet Scallop Skirt Pattern Summary

Here is the complete construction in simplified form.

Step 1

Make a gauge swatch.

Step 2

Measure your waist and hips.

Step 3

Choose your size.

Step 4

Crochet the ribbed waistband using sc BLO.

Step 5

Join the waistband into a ring.

Step 6

Work evenly spaced sc around the waistband.

Step 7

Begin the textured body.

Step 8

Add gradual increases to create the skirt flare.

Step 9

Continue until you reach your desired length.

Step 10

Work the final scalloped border.

Step 11

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Step 12

Block the skirt.

Step 13

Add lining or elastic if desired.

Step 14

Try on and make any final adjustments.

Quick Reference Pattern

Waistband:
Ch 11. Sc across. Turn. Sc BLO across. Repeat until desired circumference.

Join:
Sl st waistband ends together.

Body Round 1:
Sc evenly around waistband.

Texture Round:
Dc, ch 1, sk 1 around.

Texture Round 2:
2 dc in each ch-1 space.

Stabilizing Round:
Sc around.

Repeat the texture sequence while adding evenly distributed increases for the desired flare.

Hem:
5 dc in one stitch/space, skip 2, sl st in next stitch. Repeat around.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is this crochet skirt suitable for beginners?

Yes, especially if you already know single crochet, double crochet, chains and slip stitches. The garment is more time-consuming than a small beginner project, but the individual techniques are manageable.

Can I make it longer?

Absolutely. Continue the body pattern before beginning the scalloped hem.

Can I make it shorter?

Yes. Simply start the hem earlier.

Can I use acrylic yarn?

Yes. A soft acrylic blend can work well, particularly for autumn and winter versions. Keep in mind that different fibers drape differently.

Can I use cotton yarn?

Yes. Cotton is especially attractive for warmer weather because it creates a structured fabric and is generally comfortable against the skin.

Can I make the waistband wider?

Yes. Increase the foundation-chain length used for the waistband.

Can I make the skirt more fitted?

Use fewer increases and choose a slightly denser stitch pattern.

Can I make it fuller?

Add increases more frequently throughout the body.

Do I need a lining?

Not necessarily, but a lining is recommended if your stitch pattern creates openings that make the skirt more transparent than you prefer.

Can I sell skirts made from this pattern?

If you are using this original pattern, you can generally sell finished physical items you make from it, but you should check any specific terms attached to the pattern or yarn materials you use. Do not sell or redistribute someone else’s written pattern as your own.

Final Tips for a Better Finished Skirt

The most important thing isn’t simply following every stitch mechanically.

Measure as you work.

Crochet clothing can change dramatically depending on tension. A skirt that technically has the correct number of stitches can still fit differently from another crocheter’s version.

Try the waistband on before beginning the body.

Try the skirt on again around the hip area.

Check the length before starting the hem.

And most importantly, don’t be afraid to modify the pattern.

The beauty of a handmade crochet skirt is that it can be designed around your body rather than a generic size chart.

Whether you choose warm rust for autumn, cream for a minimalist wardrobe, sage for a cottagecore look, or black for a more sophisticated style, the combination of the textured body and scalloped hem gives you a versatile handmade piece that can be customized for almost any season.